Miscellaneous Tips |
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These tips are from
Wayne Gunnell:
http://www.smockingstore.com/silk.html#RIBBONS
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Regular household 'Future Floor Wax' works great as
a glosscoat or clear coat.
Airbrush it on full strength in light coats.
usually dries in 30-45 minutes, It flows out real well and buffs up great.
If you happen to spray too heavy and
notice it turning milky white - don't panic, it will clear when it fully
cures.
The discussion for
using Future Floor Wax has been going on for years. Some say it does
yellow after a time and some swear they have models 10+ years old that are
still fine. I tend to believe the non yellowing side of the story. The
manufacturer claims it's 'Non Yellowing'.
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Did you purchase a food dehydrator when you were
worried about Y2K? It's been sitting in storage since, right? Put it to
work with your model building by drying you models in your dehydrator.
A model painted with enamels will be
pretty much fully cured (good enough for polishing/buffing) in about 12
hours! Lacquers take less than 6 hours, and primers about 5 minutes or so.
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The following tips come from
Tex Ouderkirk:
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Small bottles of paint can be
hard to identify in a tray, Take a moment before you clean your brush and
paint the top of the cap. I mark metallics with a painted letter.
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Airbrush thinner usually
comes in a container too large to handle when you only need a couple
drops. Hair color squeeze bottles solve this problem, most of these
bottles will even work with lacquer thinner.
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Metal split rings used in
jewelry making come in many different sizes and can be found in the craft
sections of most department stores. With a little "tweaking" with pliers
they make perfect taillight and headlight trim rings, and they are already
chromed!
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When doing major body custom
body work, chrome trim and rain gutters can take a beating from files and
sand paper. Half round Evergreen strip plastic strips come in many sizes
and can be used to replace what's been damaged, either by completely
replacing it or with a little putty to blend it in.
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When redoing chrome trim I
work on a piece of glass, apply chrome foil burnish it into place and trim
it on glass, it comes out perfect every time.
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Opening doors and trunks - Using micro
drill bits, drill holes in the corners and curves close together and then
thread a piece of button hole thread through a hole and use it as a saw, a
#11 x-acto blade can be used for the straight cuts with minimal cleanup.
Make a handle for the thread from metal tubing, somewhat like a coping
saw, I use a "Flexi-File" handle
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